Mounting a transducer properly is critically important to optimal usage. You will want to be sure the transducer is installed at the waterline. The more air between your transducer and the water, the less effective it will be in detecting what’s below your boat.
Most transducers come with a basic mounting kit. The majority of transducers sold include a transom mounting kit which is used to attach the device to the back of the boat. Typically, these are the easiest to install and remove. These are the best for most trailered boats. This requires drilling some holes in your boat and bolting the mounting kit. For those that are squeamish about drilling holes in their vessel, a thru-hull transducer might be the better answer as you don’t need to drill holes however the performance and reliability on this type of transducer can be unreliable since the signal must project thru your hull.
In this article, we will discuss mounting options for transducers made to attach to your boat’s transom. There are some new options available that make this option somewhat less daunting. Generally, if you are handy in working on your boat, installing a transducer is a pretty easy exercise.
Most transom mounted transducers from Garmin and Lowrance comes with a 1/4 inch screw. The mount that comes with most models of transducers bolts to your boat at the waterline. The bolt typically permits adjustment of the transducer angle. The transducer is typically attached to the back of your fishfinder with a single cable. Many boat owners simply disconnect that cable from the back of their transducer and leave the transducer in place when they remove their boat from the water. If you decide to do this be sure to mount it away from the trailer rollers. Removal of the transducer isn’t typically difficult but can be cumbersome especially if you choose to do that while your boat is still in the water. Bottom line is think about where exactly is the best place to mount it.
One of my favorites is the RAM Transducer Arm Mount. It uses a unique design. While you do need to bolt it onto your boat, you don’t need to bolt it near the waterline. The mount features an 18″ flexible gooseneck. You can mount it well above the waterline, potentially horizontally to the waterline. The best part about this mount is that when you are done for the day, simply bend the gooseneck upwards and your transducer is no loner anywhere near the bottom of the boat. These mounts support transducers that have a 1/4″ bolt as part of the design, which is the majority of transom mount transducers. The mount includes a diamond adapter that uses two mounting screws (these screws aren’t provided).
For Scotty fans, you might have a standard flush or deck mount that has the common Scotty mounting hole. You can add the RAM Scotty Adapter to the RAM Transducer Arm to enable use with your Scotty mount.
Most transducers come with a plastic bracket. If you are careful, this won’t be an issue. However, it’s plastic, and plastic can break or become brittle over time. The Sully Transducer Bracket is manufactured of metal and uses a clamp attachment. Fits boats with 16″ – 24″ transom height and up to 3 1/2″ thick.
Hopefully we have uncovered some useful non-traditional mounting options for you. Each manufacturer has their own model specific mounts which are available in addition to the few we highlighted in this article.
Mounting Components Discussed in this Article:
|RAM||Gooseneck transducer mount||RAM Transducer Arm Mount with 2.43"" x 1.31"" Diamond Base and 1"" Ball.|
|RAM||RAM to Scotty adapter||Ram Mount Hobie Scotty 1-Inch Ball with Wedge Mount, Black|
|Sully||Metal transducer bracket||Sully® 8001P Universal Portable Transducer Bracket|